Beaches & The Coast

Part of the South West Coast Path, Cornwall boasts 300 miles of coastline to walk. We like to think we not only have some of the finest (and quieter) stretches nearby, but are also graced by local coastal contrasts…

Barrett’s Zawn is the nearest access point to Tom’s Cottage. Drive (or cycle/walk) the 1¼ miles to Middle Hendra entrance, park on the verge and walk down through the farm and valley until you reach the Atlantic. Turn left for Port Gaverne and Port Isaac, or right for Tregardock, Trebarwith and Tintagel. Or just take a picnic and relax on the grassy banks of the stream by the rocks (known locally as Freshwater).

Both directions of this section of the coast-path involve steep valleys; but the able-bodied will be rewarded with breath-taking scenery, an everlasting impression of the true character of Port Isaac Bay; and a satisfactory sense of accomplishment.  

3½ miles away – cyclable on unclassified roads (with just the B3314 to cross) as long as everyone has the legs for a couple of uphill pulls on the way home. This is Tom’s Cottage’s closest beach, is an excellent family cove and is dog friendly.

At low tide an expanse of sand is exposed as well as Tag’s Pit on the right-hand side. Steps from The Main (the headland) lead down to this area – the rocks being a suitable spot to sit at mid tide. The waters are considered generally safe here current wise but it is not a lifeguarded beach.

Cornish Rock Tors operate from Port Gaverne’s old fish cellars and offer a plethora of sea-based adventures and activities from the beach. Advance booking advisable in peak season.  

Pilchards Café and the Port Gaverne Hotel are both located across the road from the beach. Both have a good reputation for food and make a good evening out. The hotel serves as Port Gaverne’s pub.

The neighbouring fishing village to Port Gaverne, and is of course famed as Doc Martin’s Port Wenn. Still a fishing harbour, Port Isaac retains a village feel to it and is home to the Fisherman’s Friends – that group of sea-shanty-singing lads that hit the big time.

The back streets of Port Isaac are well worth exploring for old-time quaintness – be sure to find Squeeze-belly Alley. Guided walking tours of the village are available with Port Isaac Tours (07815 156632) which include local history with a good dose of Cornish wisdom!  

The harbour is where to catch a boat trip – we recommend Boaty of Port Isaac. For local knowledge and more Cornish charisma, this is the sea safari to take.

Look out for the mid blue Cornish pilot gigs of Port Isaac Rowing Club in the waters between Port Gaverne and Port Quin. 32’ of locally built, clinker rowing boat; crewed by 6 oarsmen and a cox; these boats traditionally raced out to incoming ships – the first to reach said vessel got the job of putting their pilot aboard to navigate safe passage into port (and hence got paid).

A resurgence in gig racing in the last 30 – 40 years has preserved these fine Cornish craft: built to withstand local sea conditions but also for speed. Port Isaac Rowing Club was formed in the early 1990s, launching its original gig Corsair soon after.

If you fancy ‘a scat out’ find PIRC on Facebook or take pot luck and see if you can find them launching in the harbour on a Sunday morning or either a Tuesday or Thursday evening.

Nathan Outlaw has two restaurants in Port Isaac, Doc Martin fans in particular may fancy eating at The Old School; and The Motte (on The Platt) also has a good reputation for food. The Golden Lion is the pub in the heart of the village where everyone congregates (complete with small balcony overlooking the harbour).

Several more good eateries and watering holes are dotted around the village, and if you fancy a pizza (eat in or takeaway) we recommend The Angry Anchovy at the top of the village. Also along the main road into Port Isaac is Tom’s Cottage’s nearest Co-Op.

A quarter hour drive (8 miles away) Polzeath makes it into Tom’s Country as the local surfing mecca. Golden sands greet the Atlantic swell and life’s a beach!

From stand-up surfing to bodyboarding, from surf lessons to good old belly-boarding (our preference – using traditional wooden boards): Polzeath is where the fun’s at.

Surf schools are all online, lifeguards on duty Easter to October half-term.

Round the corner from Polzeath (a flat stretch of the coast-path) is Daymer Bay. In the mouth of the Camel Estuary this is an altogether calmer beach than Polzeath and perfect for young families. Great swathes of sand and shallow waters at mid tide make this sandcastles and picnic haven.

Another level stroll along the coast-path lies Rock, otherwise known as sailing-central. There are a couple of sailing and water-ski schools at Rock, both online.

The River Camel provides a calm environment for water sports that just aren’t going to happen elsewhere on the North Atlantic Coast; and Rock is renowned for being ‘a coat warmer’ than the rest of the district.

The ferry to Padstow is caught from Rock (our favourite bit of a trip to Padstow) where the Camel Trail ends, Rick Stein’s fish restaurant is located as well as his St Petroc’s Bistro (our preferred eatery) and other attractions such as the Lobster Hatchery, Padstow Christmas Festival; and most importantly in the Cornish calendar: May Day ‘Obby ‘Oss celebrations.

Heading ‘up the cliff’ (away from Port Isaac), Tregardock is symbolic of the local coast and only reachable on foot – either by walking the coast-path from Barrett’s Zawn or down the footpath through Tregardock farm (on the Treligga road). With no beach at high tide this is a quieter and striking spot.

Trebarwith is further along the coast-path (in a steep valley) but is also accessible by road. Popular in high season with locals and visitors alike, there is sand at low tide and usually an Atlantic swell. The waters here are to be respected. The Port William overlooks the beach and serves good food, and is popular to sit outside with a drink to watch spectacular sunsets.

Tintagel

Famed for the ruins of its castle, Tintagel is the local epicentre of King Arthur legend. The large village somewhat reflects it being a tourist hotspot, but the castle on the cliffs is well worth a visit.

Tintagel Castle is an English Heritage site and in 2019 - to great local excitement - they installed a new footbridge between the clifftop and the rocky outcrop that the castle sits on. The old access of steep steps cut into the cliff are no longer open to the public, but are plainly visible. At low tide there is a small beach in the shadows of the castle.

Bosiney and the Rocky Valley

Bosiney is a pretty little beach between Tintagel and Boscastle, lying next to the Rocky Valley – home to St Nectan’s Glen. There is now an admission fee to take the woodland walk down to the waterfall, but it has been thought of as a sacred spot for centuries; and the wooded valley is an SSSI. Fairy enthusiasts and Middle Earth devotees will love a visit here.

Boscastle

Home of a picturesque harbour and the Boscastle Buoys (another shanty singing group). A pleasant village with cliff walks and good watering-holes. Put back (as it was) after the devastating flood of a fateful day in August 2004.