The giant's jigsaw: Port Isaac Bay's coastpath

The cliff-paths of Port Isaac Bay are sublime, full of contrasts but strenuous in places! From Tintagel to Padstow, this 20 mile stretch of the South West Coast Path displays an abundance of Cornish character – from the wildly rugged to the captivatingly tranquil.

Tom’s Cottage is just 1½ miles from Barrett’s Zawn (between Port Isaac and Tregardock) – fairly central to the 66 mile North Cornwall stretch, and is a SWCP accommodation Way Maker to boot. Not because we’re nearby – at a secluded spot, or because we’re also quintessentially Cornish (although these are both valid points); but because we love the cliff path. It’s part of who we are.

We romped it 15 years ago as a training ground: in preparation for hiking Hadrian’s Wall. On another occasion we completed a sponsored walk from Tintagel to Port Isaac in a morning. The sense of accomplishment was particularly satisfying – striding the 7 valleys of our youth in 5 hours flat.

• Tintagel Haven – Trebarwith Strand (2¼ miles) Pickled with disused slate quarries along the route, there’s a vital remoteness to this stretch that’s majestic. Legends linger in the mind. Pub at Trebarwith Strand plus seasonal shops.
• Trebarwith Strand – Jacket’s Point (3 miles) Passes Tregardock where there’s a beach of dark sand at low tide. Jutting rocks finger their way into the sea making truly memorable images. No amenities.
• Jacket’s Point – Port Isaac (4 miles) Passes Barrett’s Zawn and goes through Port Gaverne (Tom’s Cottage’s local beach). Coastline shifts into a more moderate seascape - rolling yet still vigorously striking. Pub and seasonal bistro at Port Gaverne; harbour, pub, cafés and gift shops at Port Isaac.

Sightseeing at Port Isaac: guided walking tours of Doc Martin’s Port Wenn, summer boat trips from the harbour, back streets of the Fishermens’ Friends home/our local fishing village to be explored.

Port Isaac to Padstow (11¾ miles)

 

• Port Isaac – Port Quin (3¼ miles) – strenuous. Passing Lobber Point and Pine Haven. Absolutely breath-taking: one of our absolute favourite jaunts, although there’s several steps! The very essence of Port Isaac Bay, did we mention stunning? No amenities at Port Quin but an extremely pretty ex fishing village with an intriguing story. (More of at The Cornish Bird’s The Hopeless Dawn) Entrancing cove at low tide, totally unspoilt.
• Port Quin – Lundy Bay (1¼ miles) – moderate. Fascinating folly on gently undulating headland as leaving Port Quin. Passing Epphaven (small beach at low tide). The valleys are becoming gentler and (dependant on tide state) exposed sands are golden – a hint of what’s to come. No amenities.
• Lundy Bay – Pentire (2¾ miles) – moderate. Find The Rumps iron age cliff castle on Pentire Point, where The Mouls island sits just off shore (puffins occasionally visit) and ‘For The Fallen’ plaque – Laurence Binyon is reputed to have penned the remembrance poem on this spot. Bluebells bloom in these coastal valleys in May. National Trust café at Pentire Farm
• Pentire Point – Polzeath (1¾ miles) – moderate. As you round the headland, the sandy expanses of our local surfing beach draws you on. Lots of shops, cafés and ice cream opportunities.

• Polzeath – Rock, and the ferry to Padstow (2¾ miles) – easy. Passes Greenaway Rocks (beach at low tide) and Daymer Bay. You’re now entering the Camel Estuary with its altogether gentler ambiance. But it does contain the Doom Bar: an infamous sand bank that has been the undoing of many a seafarer. Rock: sailing school, water skiing, shops, pubs, cafés. Padstow: harbour town, boat trips, the National Lobster Hatchery and the Camel Trail

We’ve more detailed guide books at Tom’s Cottage for walking the local coast path, be it hiking from point to point or including sections in various circular walks. Local OS maps also provided, along with tide times.

One of our favourite views is from the unclassified road leading down to Port Gaverne from the B3314. At the top of the first steep descent, the top of Port Isaac can be glimpsed on the cliff-line but the general vista is of a giant’s jigsaw: where land meets sea. Straight from a storybook, the rolling headlands with random chunks removed are captivating – a lure into the entrancing coast surrounding Port Quin.  

Stomper or wanderer, we recommend making your way to Tom’s Cottage Cornwall for a piece of this amazing National Trail.